Can you really send a letter to Imam Mahdi (A) through the well in Jamkaran Masjid? What is Golzar Shohada (the Garden of Martyrs) - and why does Iran give such importance to its martyrs? Having shifted to a new house, Muzaffer & Syeda have been busy helping fellow Howza students who have recently had twins in the Holy City of Qom! In the midst of the start of the new semester, readying for classes and caring for kittens (don’t ask!), the adventurous couple has been immersed in the Husayni culture of the Holy City. While the Holy City of Qom is alive with commemorations during these days of mourning, there are three main places that the majority of the citizens will visit: the Haram of Sayyida Masumah Qom, Jamkaran Masjid and Gulzar Shohada. Three unique places with their own sentiments and significance. A look into the emotional, black flag-ridden & multicultural hub of Shia Islam in the modern world during the Muharram & Arbaeen commemorations.

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